Wednesday, February 25, 2015

The Irresistable Belly Bread


 I wasn't getting any worthwhile results when I tried my hand at some yeast loaves from the KAF files during the past couple of weeks. First, I tried the all whole wheat loaf which left me unimpressed because of the overbearing flavor from using a lot of vegetable oil, in my case, canola oil. The second was the hearth grains bread which once again had a dense texture and too much presence from the oil in the recipe. Maybe I'm just a person whose palate prefers lean breads. I know those two breads have their followers on the KAF recipe pages.

This first bread that really turned out well recently is a return to a sourdough Pane Campesino. I worked it with the 1-2-3 or 3-2-1 formula as a foundation and added a wheat bran soaker. Good times, good bread.

Soaker
30 g wheat bran
30 g water
Soak for at least four hours. Add a tiny bit of salt if soaking overnight.

Starter
120 g at 100% hydration. Fed with organic AP

Main Dough
288 g bread flour
72 g white whole wheat
240 g water at 85F
All of starter
All of soaker
9 g kosher salt
 Put this recipe under the classification of flavorful breads that can stand up to strong flavors such as chili or Polish sausage with garlic and a healthy dose of horseradish.













 This is the loaf that proved to be irresistible to Mrs PG. Usually, I get to play amateur photographer before slicing but this loaf must have been speaking to her because she put the knife to the loaf without bothering to ask me if I was going to photograph the work. It's not quite an Italian style bread nor is it a French style bread despite using a poolish. A slow proofing in our 60F cool cellar also helped in building flavor. This hybrid has its belly from what I suspect was either less than stellar slashing or shaping. But it does work well with lasagna and could work well with chicken soup too.

Poolish
65 g organic AP
65 g water at 85F
1/4 tsp IDY

Main Dough
178 g bread flour
27 g white whole flour
All of poolish
39 g water at 85F
80 g 1% milk at 85F
6 g kosher salt
This third loaf is rapidly disappearing from the counter at present. It's a sourdough with with a bulgur soaker added. I added a 1/4 tsp of IDY to the main dough to help it along due to the coolish room temperatures here.The smell of baking bread was very sweet, almost intoxicating when this loaf was in the oven.

Soaker
40 g bulgur
33 g water at room temperature

Starter
120 g at 100% hydration.

Main Dough
288 g bread flour
 72 g white whole wheat flour
240 g water at 85F
All of starter
All of soaker
9 g kosher salt
1/4 tsp Instant Dry Yeast

Some of our avian friends have returned lately to visit the buffet at the feeders in the yard. A female red shafted Northern Flicker has taken a liking to our offerings in the suet feeder. These birds are usually ground feeders, dining on ants and other insects but no one has informed this specimen. We're fine with her dining habits since once she roosts, she chows down for quite a while and is a lot of fun to observe. I've sighted a red winged blackbird at my feeder on a snow day this past week so I'll be looking for more this weekend when the frozen precipitation makes a return visit.

Denmark, Gabon, Portugal, Singapore, and South Africa are the origins of recent visitors to my obscure corner of the internet.

Comments, humor, and questions are welcome.





Friday, February 06, 2015

Borrowing Ideas From Della Fattoria


I recently finished reading "Della Fattoria Breads" by Kathleen Weber  but I haven't baked any of the recipes that I wrote down in my notebook. I did decide to try some of the techniques that I found in the book. The first bread is 25% WWW sourdough made in the 3-2-1 fashion.  Ms Weber's recipes usually require a mixer so I hauled mine upstairs for this one loaf.

The borrowed technique that I used here was to use the paddle attachment for the first mixing. I just added the starter to the mixing bowl, rinsed the starter container with the main dough water and broke up the starter with a spatula. You could also use the whip attachment but a spatula is easier to wash. After adding most of the flour, I turned the mixer on at low speed just long enough to get everything mixed, about 30 seconds. then I added the remainder of the flour and mixed for 20-30 seconds longer. After a covered 20 minute autolyse, I misted the dough, added the salt, and mixed at low speed for six minutes using the dough hook. The dough came out a little bit sticky but responded to a few stretch and folds.

The cooler room temperatures meant slower bulk fermentation so schedule times weren't normal. Cooler temperatures in the cellar, 60F, enabled me to really play with the time and get some chores done around the house. Proofing in the cellar isn't as exact as the commercial proofers that have computer controlled temperature but when you have the opportunity to use that kind of asset, it does pay off by increasing the complexity of the flavor. There is something good in the cold weather of winter.


This second loaf is 33% stone ground whole wheat sourdough, made by hand this time around. Not pretty in the least and best described as sturdy, the technique that I borrowed from Ms Weber was to use a 50/50 blend of flour and wheat bran to flour the interior of the brotform. That may not be news to some folks but I hadn't heard of doing that before. I was more than happy to use brown rice flour. The blend works well and if your dough is in the least bit sticky, the bran adds some surface texture but doesn't add any bran bitterness. It gives a good rustic appearance.

This last loaf is something that I made to go with Wednesday's ravioli supper. It used an overnight poolish and a little bit of bulgur to add some sweetness. I think it was little bit under proofed but as one of those first time tried freestyle recipes, it was a successful bread. Beside3s having the crust that Mrs PG and I like, the crumb was soft and sweet. I think it could do well with a couple more points of hydration.

Poolish
30 g fresh milled white whole wheat flour
40 g organic AP flour
70 g water at 80F
1/4 tsp IDY

Soaker
30 g bulgur
21 g water at room temp

Main Dough
210 g bread flour
110 g water at 80F
6 g kosher salt
1/2 tsp IDY

Bake for 15 minutes, in a preheated oven on baking stone, at 450F. Turn loaf around and bake for 15 minutes at 425F. Turn off heat, crack door open with a pad or wooden spoon, and rest for five minutes. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack.

The temperatures outside have been quite up and down, varying between colder than seasonal to unseasonably warm. Today's high temperature is expected to be around 54F and tomorrow may reach into the low 60s.I haven't seen any signs of the daffodils starting to poke their first leaves up as of yet and I haven't uncovered the patch of garden where I planted the garlic back in November. Looking at the long range forecast, next weekend seems to be the time to start peeking under the straw mulch and the leafs, in search of the first signs of spring.

Comments, humor, and questions are welcome.

Friday, January 16, 2015

A Josey Baker Hearth Bread


 These first two pictures are of a loaf that I made from pizza dough a few weeks ago. I started out building up and renewing the strength of my starter and had some discard left over. That turned into the idea of baking a sourdough pizza. Well, I had so much starter that I made enough dough for a 14" crust and still had 350 g or so of dough left. So I decided that I would make a small boule and try proofing the dough with the seam side down. The boule didn't develop a spectacular series of splits on the crust but it doesn't look too bad and I know the gimmick works.

 The purpose behind this second loaf was to try baking the loaf at 465F on my Emile Henry baking stone rather than 450F as was my practice with my older baking stone. I think it worked out well since the crumb was still moist and tender but not so moist that I thought I might have under baked the loaf. The crumb wasn't too bad considering I added a 40g soaker of bulgur with 75% hydration
This rather rough, miche looking loaf was my first attempt at "Josey Baker Bread" Hearth Bread. I've read the book and while I'm not enthusiastic about it, there is much that is good in it. Mr Baker jumps right into using preferments, discusses hydration, the importance of scaling, and stays relatively consistent in the procedures to used. The consistency is important when you consider that the book is oriented in taking a first timer through yeast breads to sourdoughs and some treats and sweets to round out their skills.

Most of the recipes have a hydration in the 72-75% range, something that may be found perplexing by a new baker. Mr Baker does bring up the use of cast iron kettles and Le Creuset style dutch ovens for these doughs but I have to wonder if a new baker would buy either when first attempting such slack dough.

As I mentioned the book is geared for beginners. The text is written in a kind of conversational tone, with Mr Baker as the teacher delivering his monologues and wisdom. My problem with that style choice is that text is delivered in a kind of pseudo hipster/ California surf dude voicing which I found annoying. I didn't see the need for the editor to indulge in such an irritating gimmick. On the other hand, Mr Baker is the successful businessman and baker that has a book in print while I occupy an obscure corner of the internet. I suggest that if you're interested in the book, you should first borrow a copy from your local library system or scan through it at your favorite book store. You may be excited by the recipes and/or be enchanted by the how the book is voiced.

I followed Mr Baker's recipe for this loaf very closely, with my only deviation being that I baked at 460F rather than his suggested 475F. I don't have the fancy dutch oven but I do have a large stainless steel bowl that I used to cover the dough during the first 20 minutes of baking. The methods used in this particular are kind of a ABin5 meets Jim Lahey combination and I'm not sure how I'd change things if I were to try this recipe again. All I've come up with so far is to proof and bake the loaf in a 9" cake pan. But, there recipes from the "Della Fattoria Breads" book that I'd like to try next so don't wait for the repeat in the next few weeks.

Preferment
120 g cool (60F) water
105 g whole wheat flour
1/4 tsp instant dry yeast
Using a large bowl, mix the preferment and cover. Depending on room temperature, it will take about 12-16 hours until it's doubled in size with bubbles on top.

Main Dough
375 g bread flour
240 g water at 80F
12 g salt, Mr Baker prefers a fine grind grey sea salt
1. Mix the remaining ingredients with the preferment using your hands until the flour has been absorbed with the mass. This may take two to three minutes. Adjust with water if too dry and with flour if too wet
By my estimates, this dough should be at or about 75% hydration which means it probably won't be very dry at the end of mixing. The salt content comes in at 2.2% of flour weight which is little bit higher than many recipes but not a dangerous or toxic level.
2. Once dough has been mixed, cover the bowl and rest the content for 3-4 hours at room temperature. Then place in your refrigerator for at least three hours and as much as one week.
3. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and shape. Rest seam side down for a few minutes while you prepare your banneton or brotfom.
4. Place dough in your banneton or brotform, seam side up. Cover your banneton with oiled plastic wrap or a damp, not wet, smooth towel. Rest at room temperature for 4-6 hours until the dough passes the poke test. Retarded proofing in your refrigerator is an alternative can be done for 6-24 hours.
5. Once your dough is proofed, preheat your oven and baking stone or your dutch oven for 30 minutes at 475F.
6. Turn your shaped loaf out onto your peel, slash, load onto baking stone, and cover with your stainless steel bowl or roasting pan lid. If using dutch oven, carefully load your dough into the dutch oven, slash, and cover.
7. Bake at 475F for 20 minutes and remove the really hot bowl or the lid of the dutch oven.Bake for another 15 minutes or until loaf is brown.
If using a dutch oven, make sure the lid knob is ovenproof to 500F as a matter of safety. You can obtain a replacement knob for this purpose at Amazon or through other supply stores.
8.The loaf is finished when the crumb reaches 205F and has been measured as such with an instant read thermometer. For a crunchy crust, turn the loaf out of the dutch oven and place back into your cooling oven for five minutes with the door cracked open with a hot pad or wooden spoon.
9. Cool on a wire rack, with good circulation around it, for at least 3 hours before eating.

The weather here on the western bank of the Missouri River has switched from damn cold to a January heat wave. We're going to enjoy temperatures in the 50s for a few more days which may become an excuse for people to take the covers off their long neglected barbecue grills. There's no snow cover on the ground whatsoever so the usual standing room only rule at the bird feeders hasn't come into full effect yet.

Comments, humor, and questions are welcome.






Friday, January 02, 2015

Baking the New Years' Day Morning Away

 One of my Christmas gifts was an Emile Henry baking stone. Instead of being the usual tan colored composite stone that quickly acquires a black smudge embedded into the area most used during backing, this stone has a glazed surface that is said to be dishwasher proof and one can cut directly on the stone. I'm not interested in using the stone as a cutting board but it does clean up quickly with a little soap and a hot water rinse. It also has handles molded into the ends of the stone. They're handy when moving the stone but cut into the useful baking surface.

I've finally figured out that the glaze means it requires a different plan for baking bread. My old stone seemed to draw more moisture out of the baking dough because the material is porous. That porosity is why you should never use soap on that or similar stones. The EH stones still transfers its heat to help with the oven spring and caramelize the bottom of the loaf but my early results from baking on this stone have all had much more moisture in the crumb. This moisture isn't a bad thing. I think that I will have to change the initial oven temperature from 450F to 460F or even 475F and use a longer bake after the turnaround, perhaps 25 minutes rather than just 20 at 425F.


The first two loaves are breads that I baked for a Christmas gathering at my MIL's apartment on Christmas day. The loaf on the right is a light rye (20% rye flour) with caraway seeds and the other is not quite a pain au levain since I used a retarded proofing before baking.
The next loaf was the first one into the oven this morning. It's a sourdough with a multi grain soaker that both Mrs PG and I think was quite successful.The crumb on this one was also quite moist but not in the least gummy due to under cooking the loaf. The crust was firm and left some shattering crumbs on the cutting board when I sliced the loaf.

Starter
145 g at 100% hydration

Soaker
40 g nine grain cereal
34 g water

Main Dough
288 g bread flour
72 g home milled whole wheat flour
All of starter
All of soaker
9 g kosher salt.

The last loaf is just an experiment that I baked with some left over pizza dough. My idea was to proof the loaf with the seam side down to see if I could get a spectacular split on the top of the loaf during baking, It's not particularly dramatic but the concept works. I think the dough needs to be more highly hydrated to get "the look".

Outside my window, climbing through the pear tree, is a red squirrel that is truly determined to feed on the remaining sterile seed pods.  It is truly a daring little rodent, traipsing down branches of questionable strength to munch away. I've seen it hang upside down by its rear paws to find another gnosh. Occasionally a grey squirrel, which is uncommon for this neighborhood, will show up but the red squirrel and his kin are aggressive towards that interloper and drive it away.

Goldfinches, nuthatches, titmice, and purple finches have returned to our feeders over the past few days. I expect larger numbers of birds to show up as the weather worsens starting tonight. The forecast calls for a light glaze of ice tonight followed by four inches or so of snow tomorrow evening. Then the bottom of the thermometers will be tested as the really cold weather returns starting Sunday morning. Don't expect to see me wearing shorts when I'm on the way to the gym.


Sunday, December 14, 2014

City Limits Sourdough with Bran and Honey

 Been there, seen that, and got the coffee mug. BTW, it's a really good mug, with a nice heft and capable of holding about a pint of my favorite caffeinated beverage.

Mrs PG and I took a road trip to the Commonwealth of Massachusetts to spend Thanksgiving with my family. While we were in New England, we took the time to visit one of my favorite places to spend money, the King Arthur Flour retail store in Norwich, VT. If you've ever heard that the store is a mad house from just before Thanksgiving through the Christmas holiday, rest assured that the word is true. If you need some sustenance either before braving the crowds or to recuperate from that experience, I suggest that you stop at the Norwich Inn or their in house pub, the Jasper Murdock Ale House. Try the Montreal smoked corned beef reuben sandwich and a pint of their porter.

We also took the time to find the A&J King Bakery in Salem, MA. Set your GPS to find the bakery because its on a narrow one way street in the downtown of Salem. Mr and Ms King have a nice, smallish shop where they sell their baked goods, coffee, and other foods for either their small dining area or take out. The real action goes on in their bakery adjacent to the retail area. I admit that I wanted to ask for a quick view or tour of their production area and perhaps plead for some of their levain but it was Tuesday before Thanksgiving so I dismissed that idea and settled for one of their brownies.

I haven't posted any recipes for a while because I hadn't baked anything interesting or unique for a while. We didn't suffer from a carbohydrate shortage though and I plugged away, baking for the house, and scratching my head in the hope for some inspiration. I'm not bragging that this loaf is a breakthrough thing but it exceeded my expectations.

First of all, I used Central Milling AP flour, about 10.7% protein, rather than my usual Dakota Maid Bread Flour, 12.0% protein, so I was in the dark as to how much water I needed for my loaf. The next thing was I wanted to use a soaker for some bran because I was concerned about the bran slashing the gluten strands. Then there was the bulk fermentation that lasted about seven hours before the dough got close to doubling. The dough was still on the slack, sticky side when I shaped so I just threw it in the fridge for an overnight proof. I figured that I had nothing to lose.

The shaped loaf sat at room temperature for three hours before my guesswork said it was time to light the oven. I was pleased when the dough didn't start doing a decline into pancake land when I went to slash. After the bake, this rather rough looking loaf with an interesting crumb came out of the oven. It tastes great and there's no bitterness from the bran.

Starter
150g at about 100% hydration, fed with 55 grams organic AP, 5 g wheat bran, 60 g water, 30 g starter

Soaker
44 g water at room temperature
22 g wheat bran
Soaked for six hours before mixing.

Main Dough

288 g organic AP
72 g home milled hard red wheat
230 g water at 85F
120 g starter
All of soaker
8 g kosher salt
1 Tbsp organic honey- Thanks to Thad and Tam!

As the weather here on the Middle Coast continued to get colder and more bleak, I expected to see more birds at my feeders. The usual year round resident suspects became more frequent visitors and lately. The juncos have come to town and taken up residence. Despite having bought some of the food that they have always devoured with great enthusiasm in the past, the birds haven't been outside the window for my constant amusement and diversion from the keyboard. I got an explanation yesterday morning when, in a blur of colorful feathers, a Cooper's hawk perched on top of the wrought iron support for the feeders. This was only the second time I've seen a hawk outside my window so it's still kind of a big deal for me. The Cooper's Hawk does visit feeders but only to prey on unaware or unsuspecting birds so the hawk may have been here before when I haven't been at the keyboard and it may be back in the future. I look forward to future visits.

Lately, visitors to my obscure corner of the internet have included addresses from Cypress and Macau.

Comments, humor, and questions are welcome.

Thursday, November 06, 2014

City Limits Sourdough with Experimental Starter

Nothing of interest has been coming out of the oven in the last ten days or so until I finished this loaf. After reading a TFL post by Dabrownman about the use of wheat bran from his home mill in his starters, I figured I could do something similar. I found some organic bran in the bulk food bins at the Hy-Vee supermarket across the river and the project started in motion.

I've used bran in my breads before and the stuff is notoriously thirsty. It's also where the wild yeast spores are at, as well as some valuable food for the yeast. The starter began at an estimated 150% and then I added 5 g of bran on the premise that it absorbs from 3 to 4 times its weight in water. The main dough water weight was just something I took a guess at since this was going to be another one of my "freestyle" loaves done out of curiosity.

The starter did seem to build a little bit faster considering the seed stock had been sleeping in the beer/flour fridge. I took it as either a good beginning or simply good luck that it was ready in ten hours.The dough was mixed by hand following the procedures I mentioned in the previous post, A New Semi Semolina Loaf. This time I had the opportunity to do an overnight retarded fermentation and it was a good thing.

The finished loaf is a nice bit of work with a good crumb that is moist, tender, and definitely tasty.

Starter
75 g water at 85F
50 g organic AP flour
30 g starter seed
5 g organic wheat bran

Main Dough
270 g bread flour
90 g home milled hard red wheat flour
225 g water at 90F
All of starter
7 g kosher salt

The killing frost arrived last Saturday and eliminated most of the insects outside. That's no loss to me. I've yet to really clean up the yard but did follow through on planting all my garlic for next year. I found bulbs that had four large cloves and some with five large cloves for planting so I've foolishly presumed that they are two different varieties. Maybe they are and maybe they aren't, either way, nobody is going to get hurt here. Approximately 68 cloves were planted and are now blanketed with a topcoat of wheat straw. As usual, I plan to try to give away at least half of what I harvest.

Despite the feeders being kept stocked with bird food, there haven't been a lot of birds around for the past few weeks. I'm presuming that its because the local farms have harvested the corn, milo, and soybeans recently so there may not be enough food pressure on the birds to seek out feeders. Particularly absent are the cardinals that have been so ubiquitous until lately that we expected to enjoy their company every day. An extended cold spell is predicted for next week so things may change.

Comments, humor, and questions are welcome.

Saturday, October 18, 2014

A New Semi Semolina Loaf

I've been persisting at learning the method of making bread by hand and with minimal handling.Once again I've failed to reinvent the wheel while baking bread but I have found something on my own that works for me. Now, I might have read about this somewhere and it finally popped into action by fortunate accident but I'll take it.

It's another step in my procedure but this one doesn't involve another dish to wash which is a good thing.

1.  Prepare your starter or preferment. Lately I've played with a biga level-60-68% hydration, when the final dough is around 70-72% in hydration, a poolish level hydration- 100% hydration, when the final dough is around 66%, and 125% hydration when the final is 61-63%. Baker's choice here folks as long as you've done your bakers math. Overall, I try for a 68-69% final dough.

2. Add the flours that absorb more water than the white flour to a large mixing bowl, such as whole wheat or rye. Add all the water, warmer than room temp-90F or so, to the bowl, whisk lightly for ten seconds to be sure all the flour is wet, and then add the starter or your preferment. Whisk briefly to blend the bowl's contents and then let rest for a few minutes. You can scale the rest of your ingredients at this time if you haven't already done so.

3.Mix in the rest of the flour until you have a shaggy mass, cover and autolyze 20-30 minutes. Mist the top of the dough and add your salt over the top. Then, using your hands or a dough whisk, mix in the salt. Do a four way fold on the dough and turn smooth side up, cover and rest for twenty minutes. The dough will probably be sticky. If so, put a little olive oil on your hands when handling the dough.

4. Do three turns of the dough in the bowl at twenty minute intervals. Twenty minutes after the last turn, turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface for a stretch and fold. Let the dough continue proofing in an oiled bowl or container until doubled in size.

5. Preshape, rest for 15 minutes, shape and place in a banneton or couche for a retarded fermentation in the fridge.

6. Remove the dough from the fridge and let dough finish proofing at room temperature. Before baking, preheat your oven and baking stone to 460F for 30 minutes. Slash, mist with water or ready your steam device, load, and lower the temperature to 450F for 15 minutes for an unbaked loaf around 720-750 g. At 15 minutes, turn the loaf around, lower the temp to 425F, and at least 20 minutes or the internal temperature reaches 205F. Smaller loaves obviously take less time in both stages. The semolina loaf, for instance, took 12 minutes at 450F and 20 minutes at 425. We like crust here at Casa PG.

7. At the  end of the bake, turn off the heat, crack the oven door open with a hot pad or wooden spoon, and leave the loaf in for about five minutes more before removing to cool on a wire rack. Wait at least three hours before slicing.

OK, so that won't win a Pulitzer prize but I found it to work for me. The crumb is very tender, moist, open, and sweet. The pictures tell the tale of what I achieved as a raggedy home baker so I know the procedure can be repeated. Refer to "Baking by Hand" by A & J King for one of the sources that motivated me and you may find a detail or two I forgot to mention.

Semi Semolina Bread

Starter
70 g at 100% hydration

Main Dough
200 g bread flour
100 g semolina
200 g water at 90F
All of starter
6 g kosher salt
1/2 Tbsp olive oil


The other loaf today is a variation on my house loaf designed to test the use of a more firm starter and a slightly higher hydration main dough. This attempt with a casual approach also worked though I concluded that I need to once again cut back on the size of my loaves until I achieve better shaping technique. It has the same desirable, YMMV, qualities for a loaf of bread that the previous "hand made" loaves displayed.

Handmade House Loaf-Variation #2

Starter
150 g at 66% hydration
75% organic AP/ 25% white whole wheat

Main dough
270 g bread flour
90 g home milled white whole wheat
250 g water at 90F
All of starter
8 g kosher salt

Comments, humor, and questions are welcome.














Tuesday, October 14, 2014

A Hand Made Sourdough Loaf


Two loaves in a row can best be described as kind of "meh". It's not that they tasted bad but I was less than excited with the appearance.The first one was a lean sourdough with about 28 g of wheat bran added in a soaker format. I'm not sure whether an addition of active dry yeast in the final dough would have produced a better oven spring or not but I doubt it would've hurt.However, I ran out of wheat bran on that loaf so it may be a while before I experiment with that again.
This second loaf was a sourdough pan loaf with a bulgur soaker. I used 60 g, about 16% of the flour weight, 42 g of water, and a smidgeon of salt for the soaker. The hydration ended up at 68% and would have been a bit taller with some ADY thrown in. The bulgur left a soft sweetness in the crumb and added an interesting texture on the crust.I suspect that I'll revisit this bread in the next few months because I've got a lot of bulgur in one of my freezers.

Lately, I've been reading a lot about making bread with as few gadgets and tools as possible. The trend started after I bought "Baking by Hand" by A & J King. "In Search of the Perfect Loaf" by S Fromartz kept the ball rolling. I really enjoyed that one even though it's not a bread baking book per se. Mr Fromartz does include some recipes which look promising but it was the details and descriptions of how he made bread that were fun to read. Once upon a time, he too was a raggedy home baker.

The books got my enthusiasm up so when I dug out my starter stock from the fridge to bake a sourdough crust pizza, I built a little extra to feed a starter for this loaf and to continue the supply.

By the time I was ready to pre-shape the dough for this loaf, I noticed that it was cooler the room temperature. I have no explanation for that and no reason to suspect that my using a wooden mixing bowl would be the cause. In any case, I shaped and put the dough in my oval banneton for five hours in the fridge. My curiosity got to me at about 5AM so I put the loaf on the counter to warm up and finish proofing. That still took six hours.

My confidence in using this hand made loaf method has been restored because this loaf is one of the best I've done for a while. We agonized through seven hours of waiting before slicing and were richly rewarded. The crust was firm but not shattering and left a great taste in our mouths after chewing. The crumb was really moist even though my hydration estimates have it around 70%, maybe a little less. I have the starter for another loaf using the same procedures building up presently. This will take some time to master for consistent results and though it seems easy to me right now, I suspect that proper technique is paramount. If I can learn this well, I should be able to teach the technique in a casual classroom situation.

Starter
150 g at 100% hydration,
75% organic AP/25% WWW

Main Dough
288 g bread flour
72 g home milled white whole wheat
220 g water at 85F
All of starter
8 g kosher salt
1 Tbsp organic honey

As the days grow shorter, the plants in the yard are fading fast, and the nights are getting cooler. That last aspect has become a problem for the neighborhood. The local red squirrels have taken to warming themselves during the nighttime on the top of power transformers, including the one in my front yard. The unfortunate result of this is that some of them are making themselves into electrical conductors as they climb around the transformers. Their careers as conductors are spectacularly short in that they end up electrocuting themselves. The local electrical utility, Westar, has tried to put shields in place to stop the death wish gestures of our furry friends, but they persist. Fortunately, the local feline population have been removing the singed remains of the victims.  

The last picture in today's post includes my 5 liter colander full of chile de arbol peppers from this year's overachieving plant. I only picked the peppers that were at 2 1/2" long and even then, I estimate I had well over 200 in the colander.

Comments, humor, and questions are welcome.

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Bulgur Loaf with Poolish and a Hybrid Soaker Loaf


So I'm still playing around with soakers and this time I'm adding some active dry yeast into the loaves. This first loaf had a bulgur soaker and a brief soaking of the whole wheat flour used in the bread. Those soakers and hopefully the poolish added to the flavor that was on the sweet side even though I added no honey or sugar. I did make a slight mistake here when I just grabbed one of my large loaf pans, a Wilton 9"x5". The expected oven spring didn't send the crown up, it merely filled in the gaps around the dough in the pan. Nonetheless, it was a tasty loaf for sandwiches or a smear of peanut butter in the morning with my coffee.


Poolish
100 g organic  Central Mills AP flour
100 g water at 95F
1/4 tsp active dry yeast

Soaker
60 g bulgur
42 g water at room temperature

Main Dough
188 g bread flour
72 g hard red whole wheat
140 g water at 85F
7 g kosher salt
1/2 tsp active dry yeast
1/2 tbsp olive oil

The poolish and soaker were assembled at the same time in the morning. At mid afternoon, I started the soaking of the WW flour in the mixing bowl while I scaled the other ingredients. Raggedy home baker that I am, I just added the ADY to the bread flour on the premise that it would be hydrated slowly in the mixed dough. I could have hydrated the yeast in the main dough water before I added the WW flour. That would have worked a bit faster. Because the shaped loaf was lighter than my usual loafs, I shortened the baking time to 15 minutes at 450F and 18 minutes at 425F. At the end of the bake, I knocked the loaf out of the pan and onto a wire rack. Then I placed the loaf back into the cooling oven for an extra five minutes to give an extra crunch to the crust.




The next loaf was pulled from the oven this morning. I was behind schedule with the build of my levain, the second stage wasn't quite roaring away. So I decided to go ahead with mixing with a 1/2 tsp of ADY in the soaking water. There was little change in the flavor from the ADY and the crumb looks pretty good. It turned out to have adequate tang in the flavor for sourdough fans .



                                                                                    
                                                                                  


                                                                        Levain

190 g at 125%, 75% AP/ 25% white whole    wheat

Main Dough
                                                                          
286 g bread flour                                                         
90 g white whole wheat
210 g water at 85F 
9 g kosher salt
1/2 tsp ADY                   
                                                                                                                                                                   
The soaking was nothing more than simply adding the WWW flour to the water in my mixing bowl after I hydrated my ADY. That lasted 20 minutes and I then added the levain. I aerated the slurry in the bowl with the whisk attachment then added the remaining flour. There was no autolyse. I mixed at first speed for three minutes, added the salt, and finished the mixing with three minutes at second speed. After shaping, the loaf got an overnight confinement in the refrigerator. Baking was done at 450F for 15 minutes and 425F for 22 minutes along with five minutes in the cooling oven with the door cracked open.


Our streak of cool weather has continued and is now affecting the trees to the point where some of them are starting to change color about two weeks earlier than usual.

A visitor from the Bahamas has found my obscure corner of the internet. 

Comments, humor, and questions are welcome.

Monday, September 15, 2014

Two City Limits Soaker Sourdough Variations

Just as another SWAG experiment to resolve my problems with shaping my dough, I decided to change my procedures a little bit, tweak the hydration lower, and see if I could still get a decent crumb. These are the first experiments and they didn't turn out bad at all. I think a long retarded fermentation wouldn't hurt, but so far, so good.

I lowered the hydration in simple ways, less water, less starter, and a lower hydration starter. That wasn't rocket science. Using my large wooden bread bowl for the first loaf, I soaked the white whole wheat flour in the main dough water before adding the starter, and aerated the ingredients into a slurry with a hand whisk.

I knew that doing that would slow down the yeast action because the dough temperature at the end of mixing wouldn't be optimal but it was my experiment and I wasn't in a hurry for another loaf.

After the slurry was ready, I added the flour and mixed until I had the desired shaggy mass, covered the bowl, and let it rest for about twenty minutes.Then I lightly misted the dough and spread the salt over the dough. With my left hand turning the bowl, I used a curved dough tool turn the dough with about thirty strokes. After two more turns at twenty minute intervals, I let the dough rest for another twenty minutes and then turned it out on to my floured work surface. Then I did a quick stretch and fold before placing the dough in an oiled container to finish the bulk fermentation.
When the dough was ready for shaping, it had plenty of strength to resist me. This particular loaf had a seven hour rest in the refrigerator and was slow to finish proofing. That turned out well and I had another trial loaf almost ready to slice in the wings.

The procedure isn't quite refined enough as of yet. I still have a few wrinkles to iron out. I don't claim to have reinvented the wheel here. The method does seem to lessen some of the problems that come from using  fresh ground or stone ground whole wheat flours. Soaking allows for easier judgement in whether or not the dough is wet enough and could also diminish the cutting effect of the bran in the WW flour. The second loaf used hard red WW yet it had little of the bitterness that is accepted as part of whole wheat flour use.

Starter
110 g at 100% hydration, 75% AP/25% WWW
Soaker
230 g water
90 fresh milled WWW
Main Dough
270 g KAF bread flour
9 g kosher salt

The second loaf was done in my mixer. I used the whisk attachment to aerate the soaker/starter slurry.

Starter
150 g at 80% hydration
Soaker
90 g fresh milled hard red whole wheat
225 g water at 85F
Main dough
270 h KAF bread flour
9 g kosher salt
This dough was relatively firm despite the fact that the mix was only three minutes at first speed, then three more minutes at second speed. Still, it's not a bad looking crumb for a 25% WW loaf.

The plants in the yard and garden are starting to show the signs of shutting down. The shorter daylight and below average temperatures do make the marigolds that much brighter but it's going to be tough to give up having more fresh, ripe tomatoes than we could eat. The sage and rosemary should last another month at least before its time to pack them in straw to winter over. That will give me time enough for a loaf or two of Panmarino and some focaccia with sage.

While I'm always pleased to see that my obscure corner of the internet is visited by people from around the planet, I'm presently very puzzled by the number of visits from folks in France, at least the statistics say they're from France. Given the number of great bakers in France and the longstanding tradition of bread in the food of France, there is a certain amount of amusement for me when the French read my raggedy home baker's blog. Is there a French visitor that will take the time to explain why he or she stopped by? Perhaps they're studying to learn how to speak like a Kansan.

Comments, humor, and questions are welcome.